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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 4/3/2003
Posts: 2,084
Location: Rockford,IL.
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Working on a Cat 583 Wreckmaster in Hulcher Livery.   100_1246 by Ken Wheeler, on Flickr"/>  100_1248 by Ken Wheeler, on Flickr"/>  100_1251 by Ken Wheeler, on Flickr"/>  100_1250 by Ken Wheeler, on Flickr"/>
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 8/27/2002
Posts: 4,827
Location: New Jersey
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Impressive !
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Once again, great work Ken! We will watch as the work progresses. Mike
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Location: Rockford,IL.
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Thanks Randy, Mike. Starting to paint components today. I have got a little re-arranging to do and just a couple of parts to make yet. Once I got started I added more features than I planned on.  
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Location: San Diego, California
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I had no idea you had these skills up your sleeve! This is really cool.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 6/27/2013
Posts: 937
Location: Quebec, Canada,
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Great work, and interesting project.
So, how do you make the connection between brass and diecast white metal (like the boom's plate, or the levers boxes), other than screws? Epoxy?
S.
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Playing with toys since 1970, now building them.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Location: Rockford,IL.
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Dex wrote:I had no idea you had these skills up your sleeve! This is really cool. Thanks Dex. I learned how to solder lead telephone cables at the phone company in the late 60's - 70's. i have been building custom models since 1994.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Ironstef70 wrote:Great work, and interesting project.
So, how do you make the connection between brass and diecast white metal (like the boom's plate, or the levers boxes), other than screws? Epoxy?
S. I have tried soldering numerous times with no success. I try to pin everything and attach with epoxy,or attach with 0-80 or 0-90 brass screws, or steel button head screws. The tool box is attached with screws, the cage has pins that go into the deck with epoxy, and the control panels have brass pins in the bottom that go into the deck and attached with epoxy. The torch bottle bracket is attached with 0-80 button head screws. The same with the winch.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/14/2007
Posts: 664
Location: North Idaho
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Holy Moly! That is a beauty!
Did you post a few pics of a compleated trainwreck Cat awhile back?
Are you an enviromentist, or do you work for a living?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Location: Rockford,IL.
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JTL wrote:Holy Moly! That is a beauty!
Did you post a few pics of a compleated trainwreck Cat awhile back? Thank you. Yes, those pictures were of Rod Cross's 572 Wreck-master.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Location: Quebec, Canada,
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kcmtoys wrote:Ironstef70 wrote:Great work, and interesting project.
So, how do you make the connection between brass and diecast white metal (like the boom's plate, or the levers boxes), other than screws? Epoxy?
S. I have tried soldering numerous times with no success. I try to pin everything and attach with epoxy,or attach with 0-80 or 0-90 brass screws, or steel button head screws. The tool box is attached with screws, the cage has pins that go into the deck with epoxy, and the control panels have brass pins in the bottom that go into the deck and attached with epoxy. The torch bottle bracket is attached with 0-80 button head screws. The same with the winch. All right, that's also what I do. Soldering die cast metal won't do good and will just melt. It seems to have a fusion point that't in between brass and soldering lead. And I don't think lead can hold on die cast metal anyways. Looks awesome. Stephane
___________________________________________________ Playing with toys since 1970, now building them.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 12/30/2008
Posts: 3,439
Location: Good ol' Indiana
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I love the look of that Brass work!
-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Location: Rockford,IL.
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Thanks Ethan.
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Posts: 1,103
Location: Port Republic Virginia
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The details on this are amazing, I wish I had the skills to pull off custom builds like this. I know it takes practice but I think anything I try ends up looking like a "Plonker" model.
Flickr Photostream
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89cxsport wrote:The details on this are amazing, I wish I had the skills to pull off custom builds like this. I know it takes practice but I think anything I try ends up looking like a "Plonker" model. Ah, Plonker Models. Whatever happened to them? This is a fantastic creation - almost seems a shame to paint it all.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 4/3/2003
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Location: Rockford,IL.
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Ironstef70 wrote:kcmtoys wrote:Ironstef70 wrote:Great work, and interesting project.
So, how do you make the connection between brass and diecast white metal (like the boom's plate, or the levers boxes), other than screws? Epoxy?
S. I have tried soldering numerous times with no success. I try to pin everything and attach with epoxy,or attach with 0-80 or 0-90 brass screws, or steel button head screws. The tool box is attached with screws, the cage has pins that go into the deck with epoxy, and the control panels have brass pins in the bottom that go into the deck and attached with epoxy. The torch bottle bracket is attached with 0-80 button head screws. The same with the winch. All right, that's also what I do. Soldering die cast metal won't do good and will just melt. It seems to have a fusion point that't in between brass and soldering lead. And I don't think lead can hold on die cast metal anyways. Looks awesome. Stephane Thank you. The first A.Smith I tried to solder, I burned a hole through the roof! The whole problem is white metal, lead, and zinc have a lower melt point than the brass. I have a resistance soldering unit that has adjustable heat, and even that is tricky on white metal. I have never been able to solder zinc to zinc either.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Location: Rockford,IL.
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Thanks 89cxsport and Jamiescotland, I often thought about leaving one bare metal. I have a 1/64 brass D8H that came unpainted, and it is still unpainted.
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Looking good Ken.
Robert
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